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Category: Axes

  • How to Sharpen an Axe – How to achieve a Razor Sharp Axe

    How to Sharpen an Axe – How to achieve a Razor Sharp Axe

    Hey there, this is Jim ‘The Lumberjack’.

    I’m here to teach you how to sharpen an axe, a key skill that’ll make your outdoor work a lot more efficient.

    No need to wrestle with a dull edge when a bit of elbow grease and know-how can have your axe cutting clean and true. It’s all about taking your time, using the right tools, and following the grain of good sense – just like splitting a seasoned log.

    So roll up your sleeves, folks, and let’s get to it—because there’s nothing quite like the feel of a well-sharpened axe in your hands.

    How to sharpen an axe - A quick Guide to results

    Common Mistakes in Axe Sharpening: What to Avoid

    As with anything, how to sharpen an axe can have its pitfalls. Here are a few you’d do well to avoid:

    • Sharpening your axe when it’s not needed: An axe isn’t like a razor; it doesn’t need to be hair-splitting sharp. Over-sharpening can actually weaken the edge and increase the need for more frequent maintenance.
    • Ignoring the angle: The bevel angle is crucial when sharpening an axe. Too steep, and you’ll end up with a durable but dull edge. Too shallow, and you’ll get a sharp but fragile edge that chips easily.

    Rushing the Process: Why Patience is a Virtue in Axe Sharpening

    Don’t rush when you’re sharpening an axe. You’re not just honing metal; you’re crafting an edge. The process takes time, and each step needs to be done carefully and precisely. The end result is worth the extra attention to detail.

    How to Sharpen an Axe or Hatchet

    Wrong Tool, Wrong Time: Choosing the Correct Sharpening Tool

    Image Description: A diagram showing the main points on an axe. Creator: RainbowRed Source: Wikipedia License: Free Art License

    One of the biggest mistakes in how to sharpen an axe is using the wrong tool at the wrong time. Here’s a basic guide:

    • Filing: This is for when your axe edge is significantly dull or has nicks. A file removes more material and can quickly reshape the edge.
    • Sharpening stone: Once your edge is shaped, the stone refines it, removing the scratches left by the file and honing a sharper edge.
    • Strop: This is the final touch. It aligns any leftover microscopic burrs, giving your axe that razor-sharp edge.

    Over-sharpening: A Surprising Mistake

    The goal of axe sharpening isn’t to get the sharpest edge possible; it’s to get the sharpest edge that will last. Over-sharpening can lead to an edge that’s razor sharp but brittle and more prone to chipping or rolling.

    Maintaining Your Axe’s Edge: Post-Sharpening Care

    Just as important as the sharpening process is taking care of the axe afterwards. Here are some tips to help your axe stay sharp longer:

    • Clean your axe after use: Simple, but crucial. Dirt and moisture are the enemies of your axe edge.
    • Oil the axe head: This prevents rust and keeps your axe in top condition.
    • Store your axe properly: Keep it somewhere dry, and cover the edge to protect it.

    Proper Cleaning: Protecting Your Axe after Sharpening

    After you’ve spent all that time sharpening, don’t let your hard work go to waste. Cleaning off any leftover metal filings and applying a light coating of oil protects your axe from rust and helps maintain the edge.

    Storing Your Axe: Where and How to Keep Your Axe

    Your axe isn’t a toy and shouldn’t be left lying around.

    An axe rack or magnetic tool bar is a good option for storing your axe. This keeps the axe edge from coming into contact with anything that might dull it.

    Expert Tips: Elevate Your Axe Sharpening Skills

    By now, you’re probably starting to feel like a bit of an expert yourself, but here’s a couple more tips on how to sharpen an axe to really up your game:

    • Always maintain control: Keep your sharpening tools and the axe steady when sharpening. Any slipping can result in an inconsistent edge or even an injury.
    • Don’t forget the handle: While the axe head gets all the attention, a good handle is just as important for effective axe use.
    how to sharpen an axe and maintain it so that it stays sharp

    Sharpening Angles: Finding the Sweet Spot

    Every axe and usage has its ideal sharpening angle, and finding this is more of an art than a science. A general guideline is 25-30 degrees for a chopping axe, and 20-25 degrees for a carving or splitting axe. Remember, the steeper the angle, the more durable but less sharp the edge will be.

    Reading the Burr: Advanced Axe Sharpening Tips

    After using your sharpening stone, run your fingers carefully along the edge of the axe. You should be able to feel a slight burr or lip of metal. This indicates that the edge is fully sharpened. Once you feel this burr along the entire edge, it’s time to stop sharpening and start honing.

    Regular Maintenance: Keeping Your Axe Sharp

    Regular maintenance is the key to keeping your axe sharp and ready for action. Don’t wait for your axe to become dull before you decide to sharpen it.

    A quick touch up after each use can make a big difference and prolong the periods between full sharpening sessions.

    The Journey to Axe Sharpening Mastery

    Sharpening an axe is as much about the journey as the destination. As you spend time with your axe, getting to know its quirks and temperaments, you’ll find yourself becoming more in tune with it. It becomes not just a tool, but an extension of yourself. So, remember, keep your axe sharp and it’ll never let you down. And whenever you hear the question, “how to sharpen an axe,” you’ll always have a story to tell.

  • How to Use an Axe. A No Nonsense Guide to NOT Bleeding Out.

    How to Use an Axe. A No Nonsense Guide to NOT Bleeding Out.

    We hope you love the products we recommend and just so you know that as an Amazon Associate MyLogSplitter may earn from qualifying purchases.

    Quick answer (dont get hurt)

    • Wear eye protection, sturdy boots, and gloves.
    • Work on a stable chopping block, with a clear swing radius (no people, pets, or clutter).
    • Use the right tool: hatchet for kindling, axe for chopping, maul for splitting rounds.
    • Keep the blade sharp (a dull axe is more dangerous because it glances off wood).

    Splitting wood regularly? See: How to split wood by hand or skip the swing and start with best log splitters (guide).

    Choose the right axe for the job

    • Hatchet: small wood, kindling, light camp chores.
    • Felling axe: chopping across grain, limbing, and tree work (advanced and risky).
    • Splitting axe/maul: splitting rounds with the grain (mauls are heavier and more forgiving).

    Set up a safe work area

    • Use a solid block or stump, on level ground.
    • Keep the swing area clear in every direction.
    • Make sure the wood is stable (no rocking rounds).

    Grip and stance basics

    • Feet about shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent.
    • For power swings, one hand near the end of the handle, the other closer to the head to guide. Hands slide together during the swing.
    • Do not swing wildly behind your head. Controlled, repeatable swings are safer and more accurate.

    Common problems (and what to do)

    Glancing blows

    Usually caused by poor aim or a dull edge. Stop, reset your stance, and sharpen if needed.

    Axe stuck in the wood

    Do not yank violently. Keep stable footing and pull straight. If needed, lift the wood and tap it on the block to free the head safely.

    Care and storage

    • Wipe down after use, especially if you hit wet/dirty wood.
    • Keep the edge touched up, and use a sheath to protect the bit.
    • Store dry to prevent rust and handle damage.

    Bottom line

    An axe is simple, but not forgiving. If you keep the edge sharp, the work area clear, and your swings controlled, youll get better results with less risk.

  • Using a Log Splitter Vs Splitting by Hand: How to Split Wood Efficiently!

    Using a Log Splitter Vs Splitting by Hand: How to Split Wood Efficiently!

    As the golden hour paints the sky and you’re lookin’ at a heap of logs needing splitting, a thought might cross your mind – should you be using a log splitter vs splitting by hand?

    Well now, it’s not a one-size-fits-all answer, I’m afraid. Depends on a whole host of things.

    Let’s dive deeper into this, comparing the ins and outs of using a log splitter versus hand splitting.

    Why It Matters

    Splitting logs is essential for creating usable firewood, be it for your fireplace, campfire, or BBQ. The two primary ways of splitting logs are using a log splitter or doing it manually. Each method has its pros and cons – but there is no secret to splitting logs.

    Log Splitting Methods

    The Log Splitter

    using a log splitter vs splitting by hand? - This guy prefers his log splitter!

    A log splitter is a machine that uses electricity or gas to split logs. Log splitters can be manual, requiring physical force to operate, or hydraulic, which do the heavy lifting for you.

    Hand Splitting

    Hand splitting is the traditional method of splitting logs. It requires an axe or a maul and some muscle power. It can be physically demanding but also rewarding.

    Comparing Log Splitter and Hand Splitting

    Here’s a handy table that compares log splitters and hand splitting:

    Log SplitterHand Splitting
    EfficiencyHighLow
    Physical EffortLowHigh
    Initial CostHighLow
    Maintenance CostHighLow
    SafetyHigh (if used correctly)Medium (depends on technique)
    Environmental ImpactMedium to High (depends on power source)Low

    Safety and Environmental Impact

    Both methods require safety precautions. Log splitters require proper operation and hand splitting requires good technique and protective gear.

    In terms of environmental impact, hand splitting is greener because it only uses human energy. Log splitters, particularly gas-powered ones, have a higher carbon footprint.

    Choosing the Right Method for Your Situation

    Whether you choose a log splitter or hand splitting depends on your situation.

    • Home Use: If you have a small amount of wood, hand splitting could work. For larger piles, a log splitter is more efficient.
    • Professional Use: In commercial settings, a log splitter is usually better due to its speed and efficiency.
    • Occasional Use: For occasional use, like camping trips, hand splitting with an axe or maul is often enough.

    Tips for Both Methods – using a log splitter vs splitting by hand?

    Whether you’re using a log splitter or hand splitting, there are ways to improve your efficiency. Regular maintenance of your log splitter and honing your hand splitting technique can make the process smoother and more effective.

    What is the most effective way to split wood?

    The most effective way to split wood largely depends on your individual needs and resources. If efficiency and time-saving are paramount, using a hydraulic log splitter is often the most effective. It leverages mechanical force to split logs, requiring less physical exertion. However, for occasional use, smaller quantities, or to enjoy the traditional art of wood splitting, manual splitting using a maul or an axe can be equally effective.

    Is a manual log splitter worth it?

    The worth of a manual log splitter is contingent upon your specific requirements. Manual log splitters, compared to hydraulic ones, are less expensive, require no fuel, and are more portable. They are a good choice for those who don’t frequently need to split large volumes of wood, who value the physical exercise, or who want a quieter, more eco-friendly option. But, if you regularly deal with substantial amounts of hardwood, the speed and efficiency of an hydraulic or gas-powered splitter may justify its cost.

    Is it hard to split wood by hand?

    Splitting wood by hand can indeed be a challenging task, especially for beginners. It requires physical strength, endurance, and proper technique to be done efficiently and safely. However, like any skill, the difficulty decreases with practice and improved technique. Furthermore, using the right tools – like a well-balanced splitting axe or maul – can significantly reduce the hardship of the task.

    What is the best way to split logs by hand?

    The best way to split logs by hand is by following proper technique and safety precautions. Here’s a simple guide:
    Select the right tool: A splitting axe or a maul is typically used for this task. These tools are designed with a wider edge to help split the wood fiber.
    Position the log: Place the log you want to split on a sturdy, flat surface. An old tree stump is often used.
    Aim for the edges: Rather than aiming for the center, aim for the edges of the log. Hitting at the edge often causes the log to split more easily.
    Use the right technique: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Hold the handle of the tool with both hands – one near the top of the handle and the other at the bottom. Lift the tool over your head and bring it down in a swift, controlled motion.
    Safety first: Always wear safety glasses and sturdy boots. Be aware of your surroundings to ensure that people and pets are at a safe distance. Remember, like any physical skill, proficiency comes with practice. Start with smaller logs and work your way up as you gain confidence and skill.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing between using a log splitter vs splitting by hand is all about assessing your needs. Both methods have their place, and both can be effective when used properly. As long as you prioritize safety and efficiency, you can’t go wrong.

    Further Reading and Resources

    Want to learn more about log splitting? There are plenty of resources online, including forums, instructional videos, and training courses. The world of log splitting is wide open for exploration.

    Enjoy the journey!

  • What Size Axe for Splitting Wood – 10 of the Greats

    What Size Axe for Splitting Wood – 10 of the Greats

    You’ve got your axe in one hand, a piece of wood in the other, and you’re wondering what size axe for splitting wood would be best? The answer to this question is simpler than you think! This article will break down the benefits of different size axes and give you pointers on which ones are suitable for beginners. Whether you’re looking for a small hand axe or a large axe, the following options will provide all the information that you need to make an informed purchase.

    Below are some best-sized Rip Felling Axes & Splitting Axes

    Oregon Wood Axe

    50-inch strong handle, superb balance and long-lasting quality are what make the Oregon Wood Axe a favourite among woodchoppers.

    With a 28 inch long head and 3.2-pound weight, it’s made from high carbon steel that is hand forged by expert axe makers in the USA.

    With an unbreakable hickory handle, this axe is designed to withstand the striking of logs as well as hardwood cutting and carving tasks.

    Splitting Maul

    Splitting Maul - A great option.
    Male Lumberjack in the black-and-white plaid shirt with an ax chopping a tree in the forest.

    The hand-forged American made axe has a comfortable handle that locks in place for better control over your swings. It is also affordable when compared to other axes of the same size and make.

    The Splitting Maul comes with a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer that spans the entire lifespan of your axe.

    The head is tapered for easier splitting and this, coupled with its high carbon steel, guarantees a long life for this product.

    Small Axe

    The Small Axe has two different sizes, the 36-inch version and the 48-inch version. This allows you to choose the appropriate size axe according to your needs.

    The head is solid and unbreakable which makes it a good choice for those who are looking for a durable product. However, it is not made of high carbon steel so it is of average strength and quite light in weight. It can be used for splitting logs but not hardwood.

    Fiskars IsoCore Maul

    The Fiskars Maul is a great axe with a quality head and handle. The head is made from high carbon steel that is hand-forged in the USA by expert axe makers.

    This axe has a tapered head for better splitting than the splitting of logs. The Fiskars IsoCore Maul can be used by both professionals and amateurs with little effort needed to do so as compared to other axes of the same size.

    The company offers a lifetime warranty on this product to all customers who buy it and they also provide replacement of equipment in the case of breakage.

    Husqvarna Hatchet

    The Husqvarna hatchet comes with a broad blade that is easy to handle and swing.

    It’s also balanced well and thus is best suited for both professionals as well as amateurs when compared to other axes of the same size.

    The head is tapered which means it’s easier to split logs. The handle is made from hickory with a hand-laid finish which provides a comfortable grip.

    This axe can be used to split logs as well as chop branches. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer that covers repair or replacement of equipment under that warranty period in case of breakage of any product under it.

    Westward Hatchet

    The Westward Hatchet is a durable product that is made from high carbon steel that is hand-forged in the USA. It has a tapered head for better splitting and cutting.

    The handle is made of hickory with a hand-laid finish, which provides a comfortable grip. This axe can be used to split logs as well as chop branches and limbs.

    It also comes with a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer that covers repair or replacement of equipment under that warranty period in case of breakage of any product under it.

    Axe Shock Axe

    This axe is one of the best options you can choose from when going for an axe. It has an unbreakable 10-inch head and 29 inches long handle. It weighs just 3 pounds, which makes it very lightweight making it great for those who are still new to the idea of splitting wood with axes.

    The head is made from high carbon steel that is hand-forged in the USA by expert axe makers. It also has a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer which covers repair or replacement of equipment under that warranty period in case of breakage of any product under it.

    Ax Hatchet

    The Ax Shock Hatchet comes with a 10-inch head and a long 29-inch handle. This makes it pretty lightweight, especially when compared to other axes of the same size.

    It’s also balanced well and thus is best suited for both professionals as well as amateurs when compared to other axes of the same size.

    The head is made from high carbon steel that is hand-forged in the USA by expert axe makers. This steel is resistant to damage and thus helps you save more money in the long run.

    It also has a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer which covers repair or replacement of equipment under that warranty period in case of breakage of any product under it.

    Tomahawk Axe

    The Tomahawk Axe is a highly durable product that is made from high carbon steel that is hand-forged in the USA. It has a tapered head for better splitting and cutting.

    The handle is made of hickory with a hand-laid finish which provides a comfortable grip. This axe can be used to split logs as well as chop branches and limbs.

    It also comes with a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer which covers repair or replacement of equipment under that warranty period in case of breakage of any product under it.

    So, what size axe for splitting wood?

    Choosing the size of your hatchet or axe will depend on the type of wood you wish to cut and the amount.

    But in general, heavier axes are better for splitting wood because they are usually made from high carbon steel and they have long handles as well.

    The longer handle provides more power to each swing of the blade which means that you can more easily split even tough logs.

  • How to Make a Battle Axe Out of Wood – 7 Simple Steps

    How to Make a Battle Axe Out of Wood – 7 Simple Steps

    Important: this is a craft / prop guide. A wooden battle axe is not a real tool for chopping or fighting. If you build one, treat it like a prop, and follow safe workshop practices when cutting/sanding/drilling.

    Quick overview (7 steps)

    1. Choose wood (plywood is easiest for a prop head).
    2. Draw your template and transfer to the wood.
    3. Cut the head shape.
    4. Shape/sand edges for the look you want.
    5. Make the handle (dowel/straight stick, or a shaped handle).
    6. Join head + handle securely (wood glue + fasteners as needed).
    7. Finish (paint/stain/seal).
    Wooden battle axe prop

    Video: wooden battle axe prop build

    How to make Gimlis Battle-Axe out of wood! – Free templates

    Materials and tools

    • Wood (plywood or hardwood board)
    • Hand saw or jigsaw
    • Sandpaper (coarse to fine)
    • Wood glue, screws/dowels (optional reinforcement)
    • Paint/stain + clear sealant (optional)

    Step-by-step

    Step 1: Template

    Draw the axe head on paper/cardboard first, then trace onto the wood. This keeps your cuts clean and symmetrical.

    Step 2: Cut the head

    Cut outside the line, then sand down to your final shape. Wear eye protection, and clamp the workpiece.

    Step 3: Shape and sand

    Round edges for a prop look. Do not create a sharpened edge (keep it blunt).

    Step 4: Handle

    A straight dowel works for many props. For a more realistic look, shape a handle from hardwood and sand smooth.

    Step 5: Assemble

    Use wood glue and mechanical reinforcement if needed (screws/dowels). Let glue cure fully before handling.

    Step 6: Finish

    Paint/stain, then seal. If you plan to carry it outdoors, sealing helps it last longer.

    Alternative: cardboard axe

    If you want something lighter (and safer for cosplay/props), cardboard can work well.

    How to Make a DIY Viking Axe

  • How to Replace a Wooden Axe Handle – A Convenient Guide

    How to Replace a Wooden Axe Handle – A Convenient Guide

    In today’s world of throw-away tools and throw-away products, fixing a broken axe handle is a skill that not many people have anymore.

    It’s really not a difficult thing to do, but something that was commonplace in years gone by.

    This article will give you everything you need, to learn how to replace a wooden axe handle.

    These days, it’s pretty difficult to find an axe of any quality, or even a hatchet, or mallet.

    Most of what you’re going to find in your hardware store is going to be mostly rubbish, forged in Brazil, Mexico, or China with garbage steel.

    These types of cheap and nasty axe heads:

    • Don’t hold an edge very well
    • Aren’t tempered correctly
    • Essentially just a bunch of recycled material dumped into a cauldron melted down and poured in the form of an axe
    • Some cheap manufacturers go so far as to simply fill the blemishes and the pits with resin, and then just paint over it

    Honestly, at this point – if your axe shows signs of any of the above, I would think about getting yourself a new one or even better – a quality USED axe.

    What you need to Fix a Broken Axe Handle

    To learn how to replace a wooden axe handle you’re going to need a few tools.

    Here is a list of the things you will need:

    • Your broken axe
    • 80 grit sandpaper.
    • Standard premium wood glue.
    • 2 x Metal wedges
    • 1 x wood wedge
    • a few basic hand tools.
      • A Vice
      • Hammer

    In many instances, the handle of an axe can become recessed from the head and work loose (ie. the head of the axe appears to be coming off the top)

    How to fix a broken axe

    This is a very dangerous situation.

    The axe head could break off in mid-swing. More than one logger or woodworker has been seriously injured or killed in this situation.

    So let’s get to it,

    Steps for How to Replace a Wooden Axe Handle

    OK, I apologise the having 21 steps for how to fix a broken axe handle, but I wanted to give you more detail than you probably needed so you don’t miss anything. Good luck!

    1. Cut off the old handle underneath the base of the axe head
    2. With a large punch, drive the remaining handle out. Note that the hole in the bottom of the axe head, it’s larger than the hole on the top.
    3. So that you don’t forget which way up the axe head goes, take a centre punch on the top, and mark it
    4. Remove the metal wedges from the top of the old handle You’ll be needing these now that your axe head is removed
    5. Purchase yourself a new Axe Handle – See ‘What to look for in a new axe handle’ below
    6. Once you have the new handle, push the head down about an inch. You won’t get it fully on here though because the timber handle will widen. We need to custom fit it to the head.
    7. Place the new handle in your vice, it’s time to fit the head. Inserting it from the bottom slide it on and work it back and forth. Once you have pushed it on as far as you can, remove it.
    8. Take a good look at the timber handle. What you will see are the shiny points of contact on the timber where the axe head could not be pushed further. We are going to remove that material so that you can put the head on and slip it all the way up to where the handle is tapered.
    9. Use sandpaper of a pneumatic roll lock to slowly remove the excess wood to allow the head to slip on.
    10. Once you have enough of the excess wood removed, place the head on the handle and grip the head, whilst knocking the base of the handle on the floor – this will seat the head in tightly and leave some of the handle poking through the top of the head.
    11. An axe handle should come with an accompanying wooden wedge and a curf cut which splits the top of the handle in two, giving you a place to knock in the wedge. Place the wedge in the curf cut, making sure it’s not too wide apply some wood glue to the wedge on the bottom half and seat it in with as much hand pressure as possible.
    12. Use the old handle to place over the top of the wedge and knock it in further with a hammer.
    13. Use a Sawzall or hand saw to cut off the excess handle that is sticking out the top of the axe leaving about 3/16-1/8 of an inch above the axe head.
    14. Sandpaper down the top of the handle.
    15. Now we are installing the metal wedge. If you are working with a small axe, one metal wedge is enough, but two is appropriate on a larger axe
    16. Center the metal wedge right on the wood wedge and hammer it on in.
    17. Once the metal wedge is is flush, take a punch and knock it in just a little bit under the height of the wood.
    18. If you are working on a larger axe, evenly space the next metal wedge and repeat step 16 and 17 again.
    19. Use some 180 grit sandpaper and work the full length of the handle to remove any depressions, dirt or grease marks.
    20. Treat the wood of your new handle with the boiled linseed oil by using rubber gloves and wiping it over the handle. If you use a rag, you will find that most of the boiled linseed oil is wasted on the rag.
    21. Wait 15 mins and re-apply the boiled linseed oil 2 more times. Don’t forget the top of the handle.

    What to Look For in a New Axe Handle

    At some point, you will need to go and purchase a new handle for your axe. I would suggest that you visit a reputable hardware store to buy your new handle.

    • Make sure you purchase a new handle that is either made from Hickory or Ash.
    • DO NOT buy anything that has varnish on it. (Any manufacturer that would varnish on a handle clearly doesn’t know much about handles as you will certainly get blisters with any serious use.)
    • Make sure that the new handle is a bright white color.
    • If It has a lot of granulation, knots, or colors, avoid it.

    Where to find a decent axe to repair

    If your axe seems to be like one of the cheap and nasty ones described earlier, it’s possible that you may decide to just get yourself a new axe to work with.

    One thing I like to do is hit garage sales and find old axes.

    It’s possible to find some great quality second-hand axes around the place.

    One thing to look out for are axes that have USA markings on them. Anything you find with, USA, German, or Swedish markings, is typically going to be good quality steel.

    Now that you know how to easily replace the handle, don’t stress if the handle is in poor condition.

    Even if the head is all rusty, The key thing to look for here is whether or not it has a ‘clean edge’.

    In other words, are there chips, that are too large to be filed out?

    If it has a good solid edge, even if it’s not overly sharp, that’s okay – I can tell you how to fix that.

    As long as the head is in good shape, with a decent edge, no cracks, or anything obviously wrong with it -you have the makings of a fine tool that will not be replaced easily.